© Copyright 2010. French Moments

CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN FRANCE

‘Joyeux Noël de France !’

If there is one Christmas tradition from Europe that has not reached Australia (yet), it is the Christmas market. We are talking about a small village made up of little stalls made of wood (called châlets) which are usually located in the main square or street of a town. It officially starts on the first weekend of the Advent that is 4 Sundays before the 25th December. Christmas markets à la French sell decorations, local products and handcrafted items, without forgetting “vin chaud” (mulled wine), Christmas cakes, biscuits and gingerbread.

Everywhere, the market’s decorations and illuminations are put up with great pride. Sometimes, a market will feature street parades, sound and light shows or bands playing Christmas music.

This article will take you on a discovery of our favorite French Christmas markets which are - not surprisingly - all located to the North-East, close to Germany, another great country rich in Christmas traditions.

This is a list of our seven favourite Christmas markets, in Alsace, Franche-Comté, and Lorraine.

Strasbourg – the oldest and the largest Christmas market in France.


Colmar – an old town beautifully illuminated hosting 8 markets.


Sélestat – a traditional market held at the birthplace of the Christmas tree.


Alsace Wine Route – authentic markets in four medieval villages.


Mulhouse – the land of rich fabric has a market growing in popularity.


Montbéliard – the town sets its market up around France’s oldest Protestant temple.


Metz – the second largest Christmas market in France in the Old Town.

Our seven favourite Christmas markets...

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Strasbourg Christmas market

The Strasbourg Christmas market is a vast outdoor public space spreads all over the Old Town which sells anything to do with Christmas. It is locally called Christkindelsmärik (Marché de l'Enfant Jésus) and is one of the oldest in Europe.


In 2011, Strasbourg’s Christmas market will starts on the first weekend of the Advent that is on the 26th November and will end on the 31st December. Everyday from 10am to 8pm (except on the 25th December), the little stalls made of wood (called châlets) will sell decorations, local products and craftsmanship, without forgetting “vin chaud” (mulled wine), Christmas cakes, biscuits and gingerbread.


The market’s decorations and illuminations are particularly treated with great care. Sometimes, a market will feature street parades, sound and light shows or bands playing Christmas music.


Strasbourg’s Christmas market is the oldest in France, dating back to 1570, at a time when the Alsatian capital was not even French. In Alsace, it is locally known as the “Christkindelsmärik”, and takes place in the Old Town.


However, due to an important renewal of the Christmas markets in the 1990’s, they have become more linked to a commercial motive, to which some Alsatian markets respond by redefining their appearance. Since the opening of the new high-speed-train between Paris and Strasbourg in 2007 (TGV Est-Européen), which links the two cities within 2.45 hours, a day spent in the capital of Alsace’s market has become an extremely popular outing for Parisians. Strasbourg is a heavily crowded-city each weekend in December, so if you can, it is maybe preferable to go to the villages along the Alsace Wine Route.


Strasbourg proclaimed itself the “Capital of Christmas”. Despite whether it is true or not (our German friends may not agree with that one as the markets of Dresden and Nuremberg also date back to the Middle-Ages!), the Christmas Market in Strasbourg has certainly become world famous. It is actually spread throughout the Old Town in separate themed-locations:

The traditional “Christkindelsmärik”, is held in Place Broglie.


Themed markets are found in:

- Place des Meuniers, based on “The flavours of Alsace”,

- Place Benjamin Zix, based on “The trading place of the Three Kings”,

  1. -Place du Marché-neuf, which features the stands of the Carré d’Or Traders’ Association.


The “Bredalas Market” (Christmas delicacies and gingerbread) and the Kingdom of the “Couronne d’Or” Wine Growers, in Place d'Austerlitz.


The Christmas regional specialities and crafts markets, situated in Place de la Gare.


The Christmas Market on Place de la cathédrale is famous for its superb location at the foot of the Cathedral. Other markets are found in Place du Château (with an outdoor ice-skating rink) and Place d'Austerlitz (with its Nativity scene made from wood).


The Village of Sharing is located in Place Kléber. It is said that the “Strasbourgeois” used to put presents for the poor at the foot of the Tree. Today, more than 60 charities  have stalls and invite the visitors to get involved with their generous cause. There you can also admire the 30 metre high Christmas tree which comes from the Vosges Mountains, and whose elaborate decoration changes every year.


The European village market stands on Place Gutenberg. Every year, Strasbourg honours a particular European country (in 2009: Russia, in 2011: Switzerland).

The Christmas market of Eguisheim

Les marchés de Noël en France

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Strasbourg Christmas market  © CRTA / Meyer

Strasbourg Christmas market © OT Strasbourg

Strasbourg © AIRDIASOL - ROTHAN

In Colmar, the Christmas celebrations from Advent to Epiphany give the Alsatian town a special atmosphere. The fairy-tale setting of the old town is even more magical at Christmas with the creative lights that are hung. Everywhere you look, along the streets the shop windows and houses are tastefully decorated for Christmas.

The whole historic centre is transformed into one big Christmas market made up of a multitude of châlets (little wooden stalls) selling original gift ideas and Christmas delicacies.


But the multitude of stalls at the Christmas market did not just happen: their designs have been specifically created with the help of an architect in order to respect the rich architectural heritage of Colmar. The tourist office stresses that “Everything has been designed so that the visitor can fully enjoy the beauty of the historical city centre while discovering traditional Christmas markets”.


Far from falling into the consumer trap with plain or products unrelated to Christmas, the municipality of Colmar worked on the selection of items that meet precise criteria, in line with the motto “art and tradition”. Therefore, local and regional craft items are prioritised, as well as local produce and traditional Christmas delicacies (cakes, pastries and sweets), without forgetting mulled wine.


The Christmas Illuminations in the streets of Colmar follows the same spirit and have been designed to perfectly blend with the urban scenery, in order to show to advantage Colmar’s heritage.


The old town of Colmar hosts 5 magical Christmas markets:


Marché de Noël de la Place des Dominicains

The Dominican Church and its stained-glass windows tower over this Christmas market which is naturally themed on a more “spiritual” dimension. The 14th century stained-glass windows are lit up at night-time, enhancing the particular atmosphere of the Christmas market made up of 65 stalls all nestled together.


Marché de Noël de la Place Jeanne d’Arc

Here, the traditional wooden stalls give way to a reconstituted Alsatian village with its half-timbered houses, typical church and farm animals. The stalls are dedicated to local produce, such as foie gras, bredalas, Alsatian wines and brandy.


Marché de Noël de la Place de l’Ancienne Douane

Passing the veranda of the Old Customs House, you can access the beautiful square of “Place de l’Ancienne Douane”, from where you can admire the rear of the building (16th century) but also another Christmas market made up of 42 stalls. They are all set up around the Schwendi Fountain, which is surmounted by a statue of Bartholdi, depicting the general who introduced the Tokay grape variety to Alsace.


Indoor Christmas market at the Koifhus (Ancienne Douane)

The imposing building of the Old Customs House (or Koifhus - Ancienne Douane in French), covered in glazed tiles, was the most important building throughout the political and economic history of the city of Colmar. Built in 1480, the building had two uses: on the one hand it was a storeroom for goods that were taxed upon entering the city, and on the other hand, it was the city hall. Enter in to warm up and discover the creations of some twenty artisans (potters, glass blowers, cabinet-makers, wood sculptors, hat makers, jewellers, etc.) and masterpieces of three antiquarians.


Marché de Noël de la Petite Venise, Place des Six Montagnes Noires

This is the one that might get your children more enthusiastic! This Christmas market hosts 44 brightly coloured stalls, full of delightful surprises and specifically designed for children. There is an animated Nativity scene, a merry-go-round with wooden horses and a giant French-style yellow letterbox to post your letter to Santa Claus.



Your visit to Colmar

If you are visiting Colmar for a few days, there are many other places to discover and events you can participate in:

Go to Place Rapp where an illuminated ice-skating rink is set amongst a winter wonderland scattered with snowy Christmas trees and châlets, reminiscent of the nearby Vosges Mountains.


Do not miss the guided tours “the Magic of Christmas” organised by the Colmar Tourist Office. The tour leads you at nightfall through the enchanting setting of the old town of Colmar beautifully illuminated, while hearing (in French only!) about the history of the city and the Christmas traditions of Alsace. Reservations and more info can be found at the Colmar Tourist Office.


A wide variety of events are organised in Colmar from the Advent to Epiphany: masses, exhibitions, concerts, performances and street shows. One in particular is worth a peek: the Christmas Carols sung by children’s choirs on brightly-lit little boats on the Little Venice canals.


Find out more about Advent and Christmas season in Colmar in 2011:

http://www.noel-colmar.com/ (in English)

Strasbourg Christmas market © OT Strasbourg

Strasbourg in December © French Moments

Strasbourg in December © French Moments

Strasbourg Christmas market © French Moments

Mulhouse Christmas market © CRTA / Meyer

Kaysersberg at Christmas © crédit photo CRTA Meyer

Colmar Christmas market © crédit photo CRTA Zvardon

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Colmar Christmas market © crédit photo PSN Betsch

Eguisheim Christmas market © crédit photo G. Meyer

Find out more about Strasbourg’s Christmas markets on the following links:

http://www.noel.strasbourg.eu (in English)

http://www.cts-strasbourg.fr (transport Network Company of Strasbourg)

Our Christmas album

Our Christmas photos on flickr.com (photos de Noël): Christmas tree ornaments, winter in Alsace, Advent in Strasbourg & many more!

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Colmar Christmas market

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Located between Strasbourg and Colmar, the town of Sélestat is an important landmark in the history of Christmas traditions. It was there that the first Alsatian Christmas tree appeared. Or, at least, it is in Sélestat that, on the 21st December 1521, a Christmas tree was mentioned for the first time in history. Stored in the Humanist Library (Bibliothèque Humaniste) and dating to 21 December 1521, the records of the city of Sélestat make mention of the tree on page 239, in reference to four schillings which were given to the forest rangers to watch over the tree on Christmas Day. The city of Sélestat had to spend this money in order to protect its woods from being ruined by the locals who wished to decorate their Christmas tree. More than decorating just a branch, the inhabitants of Sélestat adorned the whole tree - which was hung from the ceiling -, thus starting a new custom that would continue throughout the centuries to come across the whole world, from New York’s Rockefeller Centre to St Martin Place in Sydney.


Sélestat’s old town hosts no less than 4 Christmas markets:


The Marché de Noël des Artisans (craft market) is located in Arsenal St Hilaire, 20 rue des chevaliers. Craftsmen exhibit their best piece of work: pottery, wooden toys and Christmas decorations, ornamental glasswork, calligraphy, etc.


Set up in front of St Martin church, the Marché de Noël Saint Georges is Sélestat’s main Christmas market which welcomes the visitors in a district of the town loaded with history.


The Marché de Noël Sainte Foy, at the foot of Sainte Foy Church, is a gourmet Christmas market which takes place in Place du Marché aux Poissons.


In Square Ehm, the Marché aux Sapins hosts a Christmas tree market where all sorts and all sizes of evergreen trees can be bought, from spruce to Nordmann trees.


On your visit to Sélestat, participate in one of the many Christmas events organised by the municipality: the Jardin du Sapin (Evergreen Garden), at 7 Place du Marché aux Choux, where a small wood of evergreen trees has been reconstituted and is marvelously illuminated from the nightfall. In the Saint Antoine Church is a giant Nativity scene put up in a natural setting. It spreads over 80m2 and reaches up to 10 metres high. The Saint Georges Church features an interesting exhibition on the history of the Christmas tree, from the 16th century up to today.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Sélestat in 2011:

http://www.ville-selestat.fr/spip_noel/

Sélestat Christmas market

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The Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometres long and criss-crosses through the Alsatian vineyards from north to south. Several cities and villages along the Route have since become famous and attract a very large crowd of visitors during the summer months and Christmas. These gems of the wine country are often made up of old medieval ramparts, winding alleyways that bloom with magnificent geraniums, winstubs, vaults, half-timbered houses, and medieval churches. Many town names have become synonymous with rich traditions, friendliness, prosperity and great wines: Molsheim, Obernai, Barr, Ribeauvillé, Hunawihr, Riquewihr, Kaysersberg, Colmar, Eguisheim, Rouffach, Guebwiller, and Thann.


Other renowned Christmas markets are those of villages crossed by the touristic Alsace Wine Route: Eguisheim, Kaysersberg, Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé. Of course, they are not the only towns hosting a Christmas market along the Route, but this selection includes the most popular.

Christmas markets of the Alsace Wine Route

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Eguisheim, the birthplace of the Alsatian vineyards, was classed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France in 2003, and has been awarded the National Grand Prize winner for Flowers since 1989. Located only 5km from Colmar, Eguisheim is surrounded by a 339 hectare vineyard, whose hills “Eichberg” and “Pfersigberg” are classed among the “ Great Wines” of Alsace.


The picturesque Christmas market of Eguisheim is themed on the Alsatian customs and traditions. The event has recently been awarded the “Villes et Villages de Noël” label for the authenticity and the richness of the village’s heritage. The priority is given to 30 craftsmen who compete with each other in attractive and twinkling wooden stalls. Held in the main square in the centre of Eguisheim (Place du marché), it is made easily accessible for the first time in 2010 by a shuttle bus from Colmar (la Navette de Noël) 3 times per day from the 3rd to the 23rd December.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Eguisheim in 2011:

http://www.eguisheim.com/paysnoel.html (in English) 

The Christmas market of Ribeauvillé

Nestled at the foot of the Taennchel range in the Vosges, the little town of Ribeauvillé is surrounded by vineyards. Ribeauvillé reveals its medieval charm to its visitors, from the centre of town with its marvelous half-timbered houses to the hills of the Vosges above where the three ruined castles of Ribeauvillé (Saint Ulrich, Girsberg and Haut-Ribeaupierre) still keep watch of the neighbourhood.

The Ribeauvillé Christmas market is possibly the most fancy of those crossed by the touristic Alsace Wine Route. The visitors are plunged into a joyful medieval atmosphere where the stall tenants and animators put on fancy medieval dress. Hand crafted items are found, such as candles, Advent wreaths and Nativity scenes; while traditional food and drinks are served: roasted boar, beer and wine, and local sweet delicacies. This market is definitevely a show for young and old: stilt walkers, jugglers, fire-eaters and musicians, all stride along the medieval streets of Ribeauvillé to the amusement of many.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Ribeauvillé in 2011:

http://www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com/ (in English)

The Christmas market of Kaysersberg

Kaysersberg, the “Mountain of the Emperor”, certainly deserves its prestigious name. A tourist hotspot, the little city houses the most beautiful half-timbered houses of the Renaissance in Alsace in its entirely pedestrian centre.


For many, the Kaysersberg Christmas market is the most authentic of all the Alsatian markets. 29 craftsmen have been carefully chosen by the municipality to set up the decorated stalls in the courtyard of the Town Hall and along the lane behind the church: floral art, pottery, Christmas crib figures, glass ornements, toys made from wood, rich fabrics... without forgetting mulled wine, gingerbread and bredalas. A “marché paysan” (rural market) is held in the square in front of the Town Hall.

Many cultural events are organised during Advent in Kaysersberg: Treasure hunts, classical music concerts, guided tours of the town, the shepherds’ Christmas, etc.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Kaysersberg in 2011:

http://www.noel-a-kaysersberg.fr/

The Christmas market of Riquewihr

Classed among the most beautiful cities in France, Riquewihr is rightly the pearl of the Alsatian vineyards. The village, with countless half-timbered houses, attracts millions of visitors each year, especially in summer and at the approach of Christmas.


The Riquewihr Christmas market is certainly the most typical in Alsace, due to an admirable local setting of half-timbered houses, courtyards and narrow streets. Over a hundred stalls present their products to thousands of visitors.


An original concept developed over the last few years in the region of Riquewihr is the “Caves de Noël” (Christmas cellars) which aim to share with visitors the passion that winemakers have for their work combined with the Christmas traditions of Alsace. In the cosy atmosphere of wine cellars specially decorated for Christmas, visitors can choose to participate in a wide choice of themed cultural activities: Christmas traditions in Alsace of course, but also local hand-crafts, gastronomy and food workshops, wine making, tasting of local products, etc.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Riquewihr in 2011:

http://www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com/ (in English)

Ribeauvillé at Christmas © crédit photo

Office de Tourisme Ribeauvillé-Riquewihr

Mulhouse Christmas market

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Mulhouse, to the South of Alsace, is not as touristy as major attractive centres such as Colmar or Strasbourg. Nevertheless, the former industrial town has accomplished over the last decade an amazing facelift with a new and modern tramway network, the renovation of its historic centre and... its own popular Christmas market which celebrates in 2010 its 20th anniversary! Mulhouse’s Christmas market has become so popular over the years that it appeared in the French national news in 2009 and might well receive over 600,000 visitors  over Advent.


Brilliantly located in the central Place de la Réunion, between the Gothic Protestant Temple Saint Etienne and the Renaissance building of the former Town Hall, the Mulhouse Christmas market is themed on rich fabric. Each year in December, thousands of metres of fabric decorate the Christmas market and make it different from any other markets. It is not by chance that Mulhouse uses extensively rich fabric in an extravagant way! In the past, the city was known for its powerful textile industry and the city hosts a renowned Textile museum.

On Place de la Concorde, just a stone’s throw from Place de la Réunion, is another market, called “Marché de Noël Gastronomique” which presents the best local produce.


Don’t miss strolling along the main streets of the historic town to discover the spectacular fairy lights evoking rich fabrics.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Mulhouse in 2011:

http://www.noel-sud-alsace.com/ (in English)

Montbéliard Christmas market

Montbéliard, also nicknamed the City of the Princes (la Cité des Princes) is located in Franche-Comté, near the border with Alsace. During the Middle-Ages, it was the head city of the County of Montbéliard (or County of Mömpelgard). The feudal county was part of the Holy Roman Empire and was held by the Princes of Wurttemberg from 1444 to the French Revolution. For centuries, it has been one of the few Protestant (specifically Lutheran) enclaves in France, similar to that of Mulhouse.


Today, Montbéliard is particularly known for being the birthplace of the famous car maker Peugeot. In 2011, when the TGV Rhin-Rhône starts operating, Montbéliard will be only 2h15  from Paris.


Every year during Advent, a German-style Christmas market is held in Montbéliard. Since its first appearance 24 years ago, the Christmas market has been one of the most popular of its kind in France with more than 400,000 visitors. The success of the market is partly due to a spectacular illumination design of the old town’s streets. Each day of Advent, the Christmas lights are an enchantment to visitors. From Place Denfert-Rochereau to the Railway station, 115,000 light bulbs are displayed in spectacular motives such as volutes and arches.


The Holiday season in Montbéliard is personified by Saint Nicolas, Santa Claus and Aunt Airie, the local good fairy who wanders through the land with her little donkey Marion. Tradition has it that on Christmas night Aunt Airie (Tante Airie) had her donkey Marion carry the wrapped gifts to the well-behaved children. She is still part of the local tradition of Montbéliard and has somehow resisted the strong influence of Santa.


The Christmas market is made up of more than 120 stalls and is located at the foot of the Temple Saint-Martin, the oldest Lutheran Temple in France buit in 1601. The craftsmen are carefully selected by the municipality to exhibit their great traditional products (pottery, candles, hats, scarves, bags, glasswork, paintings…) and local produce (foie gras, tartes flambées, chocolates, biscuits, waffles and crêpes) which make original gifts. In 2010, the guest of honour of Montbéliard’s Christmas festivities will be Louisiana. Eight stalls are hosted by the Louisiana Crafts Guild, with displays fabrics, and jewellery by a Houma Indian.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Montbéliard in 2011:

http://www.lumieres-de-noel.fr/ (in English)

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Metz Christmas market

Metz (pronounced “Mess”) is a charming provincial city and is located on the east side of the Moselle River, between Nancy and Luxembourg. Metz is famous for its lofty gothic Cathedral St Etienne and its German Imperial District around the railway station. It takes pride in being a true Garden City, with its trees, flowerbeds and green esplanades.


For the past 15 years, the Christmas market in Metz, Lorraine has become the second largest Christmas market in France in terms of visitors, welcoming up to 3 million people. In 2010, Metz goes the extra-mile, hosting a Christmas market spread over 5 sites: Place Saint Louis, Place de la République, Place de la Gare, Place Saint-Jacques and rue des Clercs.


The new renovated Place de la République is inaugurated on the 20th November 2010, which marks the starting point of the festive Christmas season. The highest panoramic wheel in Europe (60 m high), a giant ice-skating rink (1,000 m2), a magical Christmas tree and a village made up of châlets (stalls) make the new Place de la République the new hub for Metz during Christmas.


The traditional Christmas market in Place Saint Louis with its 90 châlets is set amidst the medieval houses bordering the square. A double-decker merry-go-round with wooden horses is the highlight for children while their parents might wonder off and marvel at the talented craftmen exhibiting (and selling!) their products.


In Place Saint-Jacques, the village of châlets is made up of 20 carefully decorated wooden stalls presenting Christmas ornaments and decorations, next to the traditional merry-go-round. Mulled wine and bredalas are served for those fond of good food!


In the Imperial District of Metz, Place de la Gare, the lofty Christmas tree from the Vosges  towers over the giant Nativity scene, which can be discovered by a miniature steam train.


In rue des Clercs (number 9), the Christmas shop (la Boutique de Noël) holds wonderful ornaments and decorations for Christmas - and is open all year round! Cuckoo-clocks from the Black-Forest mountains (Germany) are also exhibited there. The Christmas shop is unique in Lorraine.


Find out more about Advent and the Christmas season in Metz in 2011:

http://www.noel-a-metz.com/

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Rouffach Christmas market © French Moments

open 26 Nov.-31 Dec. 2011
open 24 Nov.-31 Dec. 2011
open 09 Dec.-24 Dec. 2011
open 25 Nov.-23 Dec. 2011 *
open some dates in Dec. only
open 25 Nov.-23 Dec. 2011 *
open 26 Nov.-22 Dec. 2011 *
open 17 Nov.-31 Dec. 2011
open 26 Nov.-24 Dec. 2011
open 19 Nov.-29 Dec. 2011
*Please note that small towns and villages along the Alsace Wine Route open their Christmas markets on certain days of Advent only. Refer to their websites to know more about opening times and to avoid disappointment!
© French Moments

Place Saint Louis © French Moments

Metz Cathedral St Etienne at night © French Moments

Castle of Montbéliard

Metz at Christmas

Riquewihr at Christmas © crédit photo

Office de Tourisme Ribeauvillé-Riquewihr

Strasbourg Gutenberg Square © French Moments

Former Town-Hall © OTC Mulhouse et sa région

Sélestat Christmas market © Ville de Sélestat

Sélestat St Georges Church © Ville de Sélestat

Montbéliard Christmas market and Temple St Jean

© Ville de Montbéliard - Denis Bretey

Montbéliard Musée Beurnier Rossel

© Ville de Montbéliard - Denis Bretey

Details of a Christmas stall in Montbéliard

© Ville de Montbéliard - Denis Bretey

Montbéliard street parade

© Ville de Montbéliard - Denis Bretey

Montbéliard street illuminations

© Ville de Montbéliard - Denis Bretey

Christmas market on Place Saint Louis

© Ville de Metz / Christian Legay, Marc Royer

Christmas market on Place de la Gare

© Ville de Metz / Christian Legay, Marc Royer

Colmar Pfister House © OT Colmar / S.NIESS

Colmar Pfister House © OT Colmar / S.NIESS

Place de l’Ancienne Douane © OT Colmar / S.NIESS

Colmar Dominican Church © OT Colmar / S.NIESS

Colmar Rue des Marchands © OT Colmar / S.NIESS

© OT Colmar / S.NIESS

Place de la Réunion © OTC Mulhouse et sa région

Christmas Illuminations© Ville de Mulhouse

© OTC Mulhouse et sa région