Christmas Alsace

CHRISTMAS MOMENTS IN ALSACE

There is now a consensus within the international society: the Christmas tree was born in Alsace, in the little town of Sélestat, between Colmar and Strasbourg. It proves once again that Christmas is definitively a highlight in the region.

The first Alsatian Christmas trees were decorated with red apples (symbol of temptation) and cookies resembling ‘hosts’ (symbol of redemption).

In the second half of the 16th century, the Reformation leaders refused to use a Nativity scene during Christmas and encouraged the development of the Tree tradition as it does not depict Jesus and biblical characters. This explained why the Christmas tree quickly spread throughout Northern European states, of protestant faith, such as Northern Germany and Scandinavia.

Let’s keep in mind that in the 16th century, Alsace was entirely part of the Germanic world, as were the neighbouring duchies of Lorraine and Austria. The tradition of putting up a decorated fir tree on Christmas Eve was kept alive throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, while in France it never really broke through.

This would all change when Maria Leszczyńska, the wife of King Louis XV from Poland, brought the tradition to Versailles with very little success. But in the 1830s, the German daughter-in-law of King Louis-Philippe, Duchess Helen Louise of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, set up a Christmas tree into the Tuileries Palace, but it still did not become a strong tradition among the population in France. It was from the Franco-Prussian war (1870-71) that the Tree started to become popular in the country.

This was due to the flock of immigrants fleeing from Lorraine and Alsace, therefore refusing to become Prussian. They brought with them the Germanic tradition of the tree and by the 1930s, the Tree became part of the celebrations in every French household at Christmas.

England also had to wait until the early 1840’s to see the tradition established in their country. It was Prince Albert who was said to have put up a Christmas tree in Windsor Castle.

Read more about the French tradition of Christmas tree and Christmas decoration here.

‘Joyeux Noël d’Alsace !’

This is the region which has had a large influence over Christmas celebrations in France. The Christmas market is a long standing tradition there, and the proximity of Germany gives a ‘germanic touch’ that is much appreciated in France. The setting is perfect: old half-timbered houses richly decorated, an abundance of fairy lights, classical concerts in local churches, good food and Christmas cookies and gingerbread, all combine to offer an unforgettable magical experience, which when it snows gives the most traditional Christmas atmosphere! In the little village of Riquewihr there is even a beautiful Christmas shop open all year round!

The Alsatian tourist board has recently divided the region into 7 Christmas themed areas (Pays de Noël):

The 7 Pays de Noël of Alsace

The Christmas tree was born in Alsace!

The Strasbourg Christmas market is a vast outdoor public space spreads all over the Old Town which sells anything to do with Christmas. It is locally called Christkindelsmärik (Marché de l'Enfant Jésus) and is one of the oldest in Europe.

In 2011, Strasbourg’s Christmas market will starts on the first weekend of the Advent that is on the 26th November and will end on the 31st December. Everyday from 10am to 8pm (except on the 25th December), the little stalls made of wood (called châlets) will sell decorations, local products and craftsmanship, without forgetting “vin chaud” (mulled wine), Christmas cakes, biscuits and gingerbread.

The market’s decorations and illuminations are particularly treated with great care. Sometimes, a market will feature street parades, sound and light shows or bands playing Christmas music.

Strasbourg’s Christmas market is the oldest in France, dating back to 1570, at a time when the Alsatian capital was not even French. In Alsace, it is locally known as the “Christkindelsmärik”, and takes place in the Old Town.

However, due to an important renewal of the Christmas markets in the 1990’s, they have become more linked to a commercial motive, to which some Alsatian markets respond by redefining their appearance. Since the opening of the new high-speed-train between Paris and Strasbourg in 2007 (TGV Est-Européen), which links the two cities within 2.45 hours, a day spent in the capital of Alsace’s market has become an extremely popular outing for Parisians. Strasbourg is a heavily crowded-city each weekend in December, so if you can, it is maybe preferable to go to the villages along the Alsace Wine Route.

Strasbourg proclaimed itself the “Capital of Christmas”. Despite whether it is true or not (our German friends may not agree with that one as the markets of Dresden and Nuremberg also date back to the Middle-Ages!), the Christmas Market in Strasbourg has certainly become world famous. It is actually spread throughout the Old Town in separate themed-locations:

The Alsatian Christmas market in Strasbourg

The traditional “Christkindelsmärik”, is held in Place Broglie.

Themed markets are found in:

- Place des Meuniers, based on “The flavours of Alsace”,

- Place Benjamin Zix, based on “The trading place of the Three Kings”,

-Place du Marché-neuf, which features the stands of the Carré d’Or Traders’ Association.

The “Bredalas Market” (Christmas delicacies and gingerbread) and the Kingdom of the “Couronne d’Or” Wine Growers, in Place d'Austerlitz.

The Christmas regional specialities and crafts markets, situated in Place de la Gare.

The Christmas Market on Place de la cathédrale is famous for its superb location at the foot of the Cathedral. Other markets are found in Place du Château (with an outdoor ice-skating rink) and Place d'Austerlitz (with its Nativity scene made from wood).

The Village of Sharing is located in Place Kléber. It is said that the “Strasbourgeois” used to put presents for the poor at the foot of the Tree. Today, more than 60 charities have stalls and invite the visitors to get involved with their generous cause. There you can also admire the 30 metre high Christmas tree which comes from the Vosges Mountains, and whose elaborate decoration changes every year.

The European village market stands on Place Gutenberg. Every year, Strasbourg honours a particular European country (in 2009: Russia, in 2011: Switzerland).

This is probably one of the best known Alsatian traditions. The Bredalas (the spelling changes depending on local Alsatian dialects) are small cakes cooked before Christmas, during the Advent period.

They can have a multitude of different shapes and tastes, and are often offered as a gift to friends and family, beautifully packaged. The Bredala takes different name depending on the ingredients used and its shapes: Butterbredele (iced with lemon), Anisbredle (round biscuits perfumed with aniseed), Shwowebredele (with almonds and brushed with egg yolk), Spritzbredele (small shortbreads with lemon zest), Lebkuchen (little spiced cake fingers with satin frosting), Leckerli (diamond shaped, from Basel, Switzerland), and Springerle (aniseed bread).

To make Bredalas, the dough was simply cut with a knife in order to obtain several types of shapes: square, rectangular, oval or diamond-shaped. With the appearance of biscuit-cutters later during the 19th century and the increase in the import of spices and citrus fruits to Europe, the bredalas became more accessible for everyone to make.

Traditionally, Bredalas are prepared based on 9 types of spices:

The Alsatian Christmas cookies: the Bredalas

- Aniseed

- Fennel seed

- Cinnamon

- Ginger

- Coriander

- Cardamom

- Cloves

- Nutmeg

- Hot red pepper

Nobody knows their origin until 1570 when the protestant magistracy in Strasbourg cancelled the St Nicolas market, whose profit used to be given to the catholic bishop. Suddenly, many women became unhappy as they could not afford to buy the candied fruit and spices needed to make Bredalas.

Visit Alsace!

Alsace Regional Tourism Committee:

www.tourisme-alsace.com

Our ‘French Moments’ pages on Alsace:

Alsace Wine Route - the most popular tourist itinerary in Alsace, and the charming little towns of Riquewihr, Kaysersberg and Eguisheim.

History of the Sundgau - the past glory of the Sundgau which once belonged to Austria.

Munster - a cheese from the Vosges, produced in Alsace and Lorraine.

Leckerlis Recipe - delicious Christmas cookies originally form Basel and the South of Alsace.

About the legends of Saint Nicolas:

The Legends of Saint-Nicolas - the Patron Saint of Lorraine

French Moments would like to thank the Comité Régional du Tourisme d’Alsace who generously allowed us to use its photo library.

Bredalas de Noël - recipe of 6 Christmas cookies traditionally baked in Alsace at Christmas.

Kugelhopf Recipe - recipe of the famous brioche cake from Alsace.

Moments de Noël en Alsace

Sundgau - a rural place of interest in Southern Alsace.

Riquewihr: the Christmas shop “La Féerie de Noël”

Classed among the most beautiful cities in France, Riquewihr is rightly the pearl of the Alsatian vineyards. The village along the Alsace Wine Route, with countless half-timbered houses, attracts millions of visitors each year, especially in summer and at the approach of the festive season.

Heading towards Riquewihr, it becomes apparent that the visit to this village nestled between a wooden glen and protected from north winds by the Vosges Mountains, will live up to all expectations.

The shades of the half-timbered houses are typical of Alsace: in red, green or bright yellow, adding a very picturesque stamp to the site (some rumours say that it is a mini Disneyland!).

On the site of the “Dolder”, a huge Nutcracker stands guard at the entry of the most fascinating boutique in the village: the Christmas Shop “La Féérie de Noël”. Open all year round, the shop spreads Christmas cheer over two levels, thanks to an original interior decoration. The client (or visitor) enters into a little recreation of a snowy Alsatian village, following a one-way route. A little straight road leads to a balcony overlooking the small town square, at the centre of which stands a white 4.5 metre high Christmas tree. It is accessible by a staircase. Each decorated set shelters the Christmas tree decorations: figurines, angels, Santa Claus, Christmas baubles, etc. Further away, the visit continues across the scene of a forest featuring pine trees decorated with multicoloured balls and glass ornaments. After climbing the stairs, the visit ends in a place where traditional Alsatian items are on display (doilies, candles, candlesticks, and various objects).

Read more about the store “La Féerie de Noël”: official website www.feeriedenoel.fr

Christmas in Riquewihr

Read more about French Christmas trees here...

Strasbourg’s Christmas tree © CRTA / Meyer

Strasbourg Christmas market © CRTA / Meyer

Strasbourg Christmas market © OT Strasbourg

Strasbourg © AIRDIASOL - ROTHAN

Village of Hirsingue

Alsace in winter

in Strasbourg

in Strasbourg (marrons chauds - roasted chestnuts)

all 4 photos © French Moments

Other renowned Christmas markets are those of Sélestat, Colmar, Eguisheim, Kaysersberg, Mulhouse and Riquewihr. Most of Alsace’s little towns and villages hold markets of this sort, competing with each other for the best illuminations and Christmas atmosphere.

The streets are adorned with sparkling decorations, animated facades, and illuminated monuments. Pretty little wooden stalls (called châlets) are set up in the centre of most Alsatian towns are individually decorated and illuminated to spread the enchanting atmosphere of Christmas in Alsace.

Alsatian Christmas markets often takes place in the main square or street of a town, and is organised by the local council. It officially starts on the first weekend of the Advent that is 4 Sundays before the 25th December.

Other Christmas markets in Alsace

Read more about Christmas markets in Alsace, Lorraine and Franche-Comté here.

All information about the Christmas markets and their location on the following links:

http://noel.tourisme-alsace.com/

http://www.marche-de-noel-alsace.com - Christmas markets in Alsace (in French only)

http://www.noel-sud-alsace.com - Christmas celebrations in the Land of Carols and Fabrics around Mulhouse and the Sundgau.

http://www.noel-colmar.com - Christmas in Colmar.

Mulhouse...

... Kaysersberg.

...Eguisheim...

... Riquewihr...

... Colmar...

A true Alsatian Christmas market displays the Christmas nativity scene and has a majestic illuminated Christmas tree in its centre. The fine aromas of mulled wine (with scents of cinnamon, orange and spices) and roasted chestnuts perfume the atmosphere. The craftsmen in the chalets offer authentic goods especially for the Christmas season: decorations for the Christmas tree, pottery decorations, blown glass, toys and chiselled wooden Christmas figures for the nativity, linen, floral art, and hampers containing foie gras, Christmas biscuits and gingerbreads.

Hugely popular, the Christmas markets of the villages along the Alsace Wine Route can become congested with the flow of visitors on weekends in December - you had better come armed with patience!

Here are some of Alsace’s most famous Christmas markets:

Find out more about Strasbourg’s Christmas markets and their location on the following links:

http://www.noel.strasbourg.eu (in English)

http://www.cts-strasbourg.fr (transport Network Company of Strasbourg)