© Copyright 2010. French Moments
THE ALSACE WINE ROUTE
Several cities and villages along the Alsace Wine Route have since become famous and attract a very large crowd of visitors during the summer months and Christmas. These gems of the wine country are often made up of old medieval ramparts, winding alleyways that bloom with magnificent geraniums, winstubs, vaults, half-timbered houses, and medieval churches. Many town names have become synonymous with rich traditions, friendliness, prosperity and great wines. These include Molsheim, Obernai, Barr, Andlau, Saint-Hyppolite, Ribeauvillé, Hunawihr, Riquewihr, Kaysersberg, Turckheim, Colmar ,Eguisheim, Rouffach, Guebwiller, Cernay and Thann.
The Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometres long and was inaugurated in 1953. It criss-crosses through the Alsatian vineyards from north to south and is undoubtedly France’s most beautiful tourist route, featuring charming villages and countryside, which are characteristic of the foothills of the Vosges (Le Piedmont des Vosges).
How to get to the Route des Vins d’Alsace...
The Route des Vins d’Alsace is easily accessible by car from Alsace’s main cities Strasbourg, Colmar, and Mulhouse, as well as from Lorraine (Nancy and Metz) and Franche-Comté (Besançon).
From Paris, take the N4 road (which is a dual carriageway from Vitry-le-François to Nancy), and then the express way from Nancy to Saint-Dié des Vosges.
If you travel from Australia you could take a flight to Paris Charles de Gaulle, Zurich or Frankfurt Airports and rent a car from there.
The TGV from Paris-Gare de l’Est takes just over 2 hours to Strasbourg, and also stops at Colmar and Mulhouse.
Visit Alsace
Alsace Regional Tourism Committee:
Alsace Wines official website:
Tourist information centre of Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr:
Tourist information centre of Colmar:
Tourist information centre of Kaysersberg:
Tourist information centre of the Eguisheim:
When staying in Alsace, take the time to visit the local cities and chateaux of Strasbourg, Colmar, the Vosges mountains and the Sundgau area.
Get travel advice about Alsace!
If you live in Sydney and are planning a trip to Alsace and want to know more about its popular attractions, we can advise you.
Benefiting from local microclimates, these areas are bordered to the West by the natural barrier of the Vosges, and to the East by the Rhine Plain which has its own large natural border: the Black Forest in Germany. The Romans who introduced wine in Alsace and in the Upper Rhine region recognised the privileged position of the foot of the Vosges, bathed in sunlight and protected from wind and rain by the mountains. The region around Colmar is recognised as one of the sunniest in France and its average levels of precipitation are the lowest of all of France’s vineyards.
Much like Périgord, Alsace is one of the regions of France that has the most medieval castles. More than 500 are counted here, mostly distributed from north to south, at the foothills of the Vosges. Even if they are for the most part in ruin, their silhouettes, perched at the top of the Vosges Mountains, have been a part of the countryside for centuries, thus defying time. As previously, these castles still seem to dominate the Alsace Plain even today, watching over the Vosges valleys, communication channels and sometimes the abbeys.
Riquewihr
La Route des Vins d’Alsace
The Châteaux of Piémont des Vosges
The fortified castles were places of power, residences and sometimes administrative centres. They reinforce the protection of a territory and its inhabitants, thus concreting the power of the local seignior.
Built in stone from the 12th century, they were created in large numbers, as witnesses of the strategic important of Alsace in the Middle Ages and of its political and seigniorial division. The construction and maintenance of these castles lasted from the 12th to the 14th century, which was a period characterised by the height of the local nobility.
The eagle nest construction of the castles at the top of the hills overlooking the Wine Route was completed following rivalries and conflicts between several noble families (the Eguisheim-Dabo family, the Hohenstaufens, the Ferrettes, and the Habsburgs) and between bishops (of Strasbourg and Basel) and Holy Roman Emperors.
But life at the top of these hills was rather rough and uncomfortable. From the 14th century, the nobility thought it was preferable to abandon their castles in favour of living in the wealthy cities and villages below. The fortresses either became ruins or the centre of a military garrison, or the hideout for knight thieves – otherwise known as the thugs that robbed nobles and merchants who were passing through the road between Strasbourg and Basel.
Following the Thirty Years War (1618-1648), the castles lost their military and strategic importance. King Louis XIV ordered the unification of Alsace into a single province and the border of the Kingdom of France was aligned further east, on the Rhine. The castles, some of which were already in a pitiful state, fell into ruin.
It was not until the 19th century that interest in the heritage of the past surfaced, in the name of medieval romanticism and chivalry. In the 20th century, thanks to the development of the hiking association ‘Club Vosgien’, the castle ruins became a destination for walking and discovery. From 1945, local authorities and associations have been trying to stop erosion of the ruins and are investing in their partial restoration.
Some castles still have a great reputation and are in good condition, with their imposing ruins evoking respect and admiration. This is especially true for the castles of Haut-Koenigsbourg, Ribeauvillé, Hohlandsbourg, Eguisheim and Haut-Andlau. The three Castles of Eguisheim especially, bear witness to the turbulent history of the region in the Middle Ages.
The castle of the Haut-Koenigsbourg is one of the most visited tourist locations in France, with nearly 500,000 visitors each year. Perched at 747 metres high, it dominates the Rhineland Plain, watching over all the roads leading to Lorraine or crossing Alsace. It was greatly restored from 1901 to 1908 under the orders of Kaiser William II, a great admirer of medieval romanticism.
The Alsace Wine Route winds through the Alsatian vineyards across a hundred cities and villages. We have chosen to go into detail for three of the most remarkable places, located at the centre of the tourist route: Riquewihr, Kaysersberg and Eguisheim. Closeby, Colmar, the capital of the Alsace Wines, also deserves a closer look.
The Pearls of the Alsace Wine Route
Classed among the most beautiful cities in France, Riquewihr is rightly the pearl of the Alsatian vineyards. The village, with countless half-timbered houses, attracts millions of visitors each year, especially in summer and at the approach of the festive season.
Heading towards Riquewihr, it becomes apparent that the visit to this village nestled between a wooden glen and protected from north winds by the Vosges Mountains, will live up to all expectations.
The shades of the half-timbered houses are typical of Alsace: in red, green or bright yellow, adding a very picturesque stamp to the site (some rumours say that it is a mini Disneyland!).
Riquewihr: a bit of history
The fortifications of Riquewihr, of which the ruins can still be seen, were built in 1291 by the Lords of Horbourg. They bequeathed the village and its surrounds to the Counts of Wurtemberg in 1324. Riquewihr, which adopted the coat of arms of the Counts then the Dukes of Wurtemberg (made up of three antlers) remained in their possession until 1793. In the 16th century, with the counts of Wurtemberg having converted to Protestant faith, the Reformation was introduced in the seigniory of Riquewihr in 1534. The village enjoyed a period of prosperity in the 16th century, thanks to the sale of its famous wines throughout the Holy Roman Empire and in the Hanse. The Thirty Years War would of course bring a brutal end to this prosperity.
In 1680, Louis XIV’s army took possession of Riquewihr. However, unique to Alsace, the village remained under the laws and customs of the Holy Roman Empire and the orders of the counts of Wurtemberg until the Revolution.
In 1796, Riquewihr was permanently joined to the French Republic by the Treaty of Paris. Due to its “cul-de-sac” position, Riquewihr was not as affected by the conflict of the Second World War unlike the other localities of the “Colmar Pocket”.
Riquewihr: the centre of the village and the “Dolder”
The village is surrounded by the ruins of its ramparts from the 13th century. The main road, paved and lined with houses from the Renaissance, is framed with side alleys and charming backyards. Softly sloping, it leads to the belfry of the “Dolder”, a remarkable 25 metre-high construction, in pink sandstone from the Vosges and timber. Built from 1291, the “Dolder” was an integral part of the fortified wall and could serve to defend the village thanks to its watch tower located at the top of the belfry (“Dolder” means “the highest point” in Alsatian dialect).
The inside presents a much more pleasant aspect than that of the exterior, with a cubicle with pretty timbered walls. The four storeys of the tower housed the caretaker and his family who were in charge of closing the entry door to the village every night and sounding the alarm in case of attack. Today, the first three storeys house the local museum of art and popular tradition.
Riquewihr: the Christmas shop “La Féerie de Noël”
On the site of the “Dolder”, a huge Nutcracker stands guard at the entry of the most fascinating boutique in the village: the Christmas Shop “La Féérie de Noël”. Open all year round, the shop spreads Christmas cheer over two levels, thanks to an original interior decoration. The client (or visitor) enters into a little recreation of a snowy Alsatian village, following a one-way route. A little straight road leads to a balcony overlooking the small town square, at the centre of which stands a white 4.5 metre high Christmas tree. It is accessible by a staircase. Each decorated set shelters the Christmas tree decorations: figurines, angels, Santa Claus, Christmas baubles, etc. Further away, the visit continues across the scene of a forest featuring pine trees decorated with multicoloured balls and glass ornaments. After climbing the stairs, the visit ends in a place where traditional Alsatian items are on display (doilies, candles, candlesticks, and various objects).
Read more about the store on their official website: http://www.feeriedenoel.fr
Riquewihr: the Rue du Général de Gaulle
The Rue du Général de Gaulle is the main street of Riquewihr, which links the Dolder to the Town Hall below. Several beautiful buildings were constructed here between 1500 and 1650 with bay windows, timbered walls, arched doors, pine wreaths or a loggia.
Riquewihr: the “Obertor”
Beyond the “Dolder”, another fortified gate, the “Obertor” (Tall Gate in German) reinforces the Riquewihr fortifications. In the 16th century, firearms technology inspired inhabitants to reinforce their security with the construction of a second fortified wall. The gate is equipped with a drawbridge as well as a massive wooden double flap gate, one of the oldest that is still visible today in France.
Riquewihr: the “Tour des Voleurs” (Thieves Tower)
The Tour des Voleurs was built in 1550 and overlooks the ramparts. Its pentagonal shape is 18 metres high. Inside, it houses the museum of the Tour des Voleurs, witness of the sombre medieval past where the criminals were tortured to death. You can visit the torture room with authentic instruments of the time. The museum can be accessed from the Cour des Juifs.
Kaysersberg
“The location of Kaysersberg, its curious silhouette, its numerous constructions of the past make it one of the prettiest cities among the cities of the Alsatian vineyard”.
Hansi, Alsatian illustrator (1873-1951).
Kaysersberg, the “Mountain of the Emperor”, certainly deserves its prestigious name. A tourist hotspot, the little city houses the most beautiful half-timbered houses of the Renaissance in Alsace in its entirely pedestrian centre. This remarkable heritage goes hand in hand with famous historical personalities who have marked the region and beyond: Geiler de Kaysersberg (humanist preacher at the Cathedral of Strasbourg), Matthieu Zell (the first reformer of Strasbourg, and Albert Schweitzer (Nobel Peace Prize winner in 1952).
The city of Kaysersberg and its viticulture are dominated by the castle ruins, which only consists now of a beautiful round tower. The view from its summit offers a panorama of the city, the valley of the Weiss, the vineyards and the Plain.
Read more about Kaysersberg here.
Eguisheim
When looking at a photo of Eguisheim taken from above, it is easy to be amazed by the shape of this medieval city, which was built in three concentric circles around the octagonal Romanic chateau. It was the birth place of Pope Leo IX (1049-1054), former bishop of Toul who was known by the name of Bruno d’Eguisheim-Dagsbourg. This city surrounded by vineyards plunges the visitor into the middle of the Renaissance.
This birthplace of the Alsatian vineyards was classed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France in 2003, and has been awarded the National Grand Prize winner for Flowers since 1989. Located only 5km from Colmar, Eguisheim is surrounded by a 339 hectare vineyard, whose hills “Eichberg” and “Pfersigberg” are classed among the “ Great Wines” of Alsace.
The Grand Rue is lined with old houses with large emblazoned and dated portals, as well as two beautiful Renaissance fountains.
Eguisheim’s charm is best displayed along the tour of the ramparts. These straight and paved alleyways are lined with old half-timbered houses – some which are surprisingly narrow - very architecturally rich with their balconies, bay windows, pointed gables, and tithe courtyard. As Eguisheim is in Alsace, the magnificent little half-timbered houses are very beautifully decorated with flowers.
A 30 minute tourist track is easy to follow thanks to its signage and allows visitors to take a tour of Eguisheim.
Towards the centre of the village, the St Peter and St Paul church with its bell tower erected in 1220 and its Romanesque tympanum (13th century) have been classified as a Historic Monument.
The bell tower and the portal are the only remaining features of the building that date back to 13th century. Inside the bell tower, the Romanesque portal is surmounted by a polychrome tympanum representing Christ being blessed, surrounded by Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The lintel depicts the parable of the Wise and Foolish Virgins (13th century) who, one at a time, knock on the door of Heaven.
In the same place is kept one of the only “Vierges Ouvrantes” in Alsace, made from polychrome wood from the 13th and 14th centuries. A "Vierge Ouvrante" (Opening Virgin) or shrine of Madonna, is a sculpture of Virgin Mary which can be opened like a shrine, and shows basically one of three iconographical motifs.
The St Leo Chapel is located at the Place du Château. This is where relics of Pope Saint Leo IX are kept, as well as a Renaissance fountain surmounted by the statue of the Pope.
Inside the chapel, the shrine contains a part of the Pope’s skull. Medallions on the archway and the stained glass windows represent the stages of his life (birth, illness and healing by Saint Benedict, Leo as bishop washing the feet of the poor, Pope Leo the reformer and traveller, etc).
Close to the chapel, the Chateau Bas d’Eguisheim leans against an octagonal wall characteristic of the 13th century, made up of rusticated stone. More than 2 metres thick in some parts, the wall was surrounded by moats, which were drained in 1835. The city is organised around the chateau, the roads ordered in concentric circles following the markings of successive fortifications. The chateau is only accessible through guided visits offered by the Tourist Office.
The city of Eguisheim is overlooked by a series of five castles which are linked by a small tourist road that winds through the hills of the Vosges close to Eguisheim: the “Route des Cinq Châteaux”.
The Route des Cinq Châteaux (the Five Castles Itinerary)
Continuing along the Alsace Wine Route towards the south, the next village of Husseren-les-Chateaux marks the highest point of the tourist itinerary (387 metres), from where you can admire the harmonious mixture of steep hillsides and gentle rolling fields. This countryside is protected by the three castles of Eguisheim, which stand atop the hill of Schollsberg at almost 600 metres high. These are, from south to north, Weckmund, Wahlenbourg (the oldest of the three, built in the 11th century), and Dagsbourg. The three fortresses have kept their huge square and red sandstone keep.
Their history is representative of that of the entire medieval Alsace, whose territory was divided into small territories belonging to local lords who were at war for political or economic reasons.
The hill of the castles belonged to the powerful Eguisheim-Dabo family. The extinction of the Dabo-Eguisheim dynasty in 1225 initiated the deterioration of the political situation.
The Châteaux du Haut-Eguisheim
The imposing Hohlandsbourg castle was built in 1279 by Siegfried de Gundolsheim, provost-marshal of the city of Colmar, to become the residence of the seigniory of the Habsburg family. Unlike the surrounding castles, it was not built in sandstone from the Vosges, but rather in granite.
At 620 metres high, it provided a good view for its occupants to watch over the city of Colmar, which the bourgeois residents of Colmar did not appreciate at all. They revolted in 1281 and burned down the castle, with the help of the great bailiff Otton von Ochenstein.
The castle fell under the control of the Austrian city of Ensisheim (Upper Alsace) in 1303, before being given in fief to the Ribeaupierre family by Duke Rudolf IV of Habsburg in 1363, and then to the Counts of Lupfen in 1410 who extended it.
The Château du Hohlandsbourg
The Pflixbourg castle is not visible from the Alsace Plain, but can be found along the road that crosses through the Munster Valley, which it towers above at 454 metres high.
Dating from the 13th century, it has changed owners many times (notably the Hattstatt and Ribeaupierre families) up until the 15th century, and it does not seem to have been inhabited since.
The fortress was the former residence of the representative of the Holy Roman Emperor in Alsace. From the circular keep located in the middle of the courtyard, you can admire beautiful views of the Munster Valley, which is famous for its cheese!
The Pflixbourg castle underwent serious restorations in 1864, 1983 and 2006.
The Château du Pflixbourg
The Christmas Markets along the Alsace Wine Route
The Christmas Markets are a real institution and are deeply rooted in Alsatian tradition. When the time of the Advent arrives in Alsace, Christmas cities and villages are decorated for the occasion. The streets are adorned with sparkling decorations, animated facades, and illuminated monuments. Pretty little wooden chalets are erected in the centre of the towns of Riquewihr, Kaysersberg and Eguisheim, and are individually decorated and illuminated to spread the enchanting atmosphere of the Alsatian villages.
The great Christmas markets begin at Advent and finish shortly before Christmas.
A true Alsatian Christmas market displays the Christmas nativity scene and has a majestic illuminated Christmas tree in its centre. The fine aromas of mulled wine (with scents of cinnamon, orange and spices) and roasted chestnuts perfume the atmosphere. The craftsmen in the chalets offer authentic goods especially for the Christmas season: decorations for the Christmas tree, pottery decorations, blown glass, toys and chiselled wooden Christmas figures for the nativity, linen, floral art, and hampers containing foie gras, Christmas biscuits and gingerbreads.
Hugely popular, the Christmas markets of the villages along the Alsace Wine Route can become congested with the flow of visitors on weekends in December - you had better come armed with patience!
Learn more about Christmas celebrations in Alsace in our page: Christmas in Alsace.
The three castles were rightly coveted by the Counts of Ferrette, contrary to the opinion of the Bishop of Strasbourg who declared that he was the sole beneficiary. A war ensued between the bishop on one side, and the Ferrette family and Emperor Henry VII on the other. Once peace had been restored in 1251, the bishop kept the Dagsbourg castle while the Weckmund and the Wahlenbourg castles were returned to the Count of Ferrette.
The castles were burned during the “War of the Six Deniers” (1466), in a disagreement between the bourgeois of Mulhouse and the local gentry, and they were never rebuilt.
The castles of Haut-Eguisheim can be accessed from the Route des Cinq Châteaux from Husseren-les-Châteaux (D14) or after Wintzenheim in the Saint-Gilles locality (D417). From the carpark in the middle of the forest, it takes fifteen minutes to reach the castles on foot, and an hour and a half to visit them.
In 1562, Lazare of Schwendi, the advisor to Emperor Charles V, bought back the seigniory along with the castle. The fortress was once again reinforced by bastions and by a new door equipped with a drawbridge. This great General of the Habsburgs would have brought the Tokay from Hungary to Alsace.
The castle was bombed by mercenaries of the Swedish army in 1633 and was eventually demolished by the French in 1637, out of fear of seeing it fall into the hands of the Austrian army.
It was listed as a historic monument in 1840 and major restorations commenced in the 1990s for it to become a historic and cultural centre.
The ruins of the Haut-Koenigsbourg castle.
Kaysersberg © French Moments
The 3 castles of Ribeauvillé © crédit photo
Office de Tourisme Ribeauvillé-Riquewihr
Haut-Koenigsbourg castle © crédit photo Fr_Antunes
Riquewihr from above © crédit photo 2010 IGN-France
Riquewihr © French Moments
The Dolder, Riquewihr © crédit photo
Office de Tourisme Ribeauvillee-Riquewihr
Christmas in Riquewihr © crédit photo La Féérie de Noël
Obertor, Riquewihr © crédit photo La Féérie de Noël
Grand Rue, Kaysersberg © French Moments
Eguisheim from above © crédit photo 2010 IGN-France
Eguisheim © crédit photo Mairie d'Eguisheim
Eguisheim © French Moments
Place du Château, Eguisheim © French Moments
The 3 castles of Eguisheim © French Moments
The Hohlandsbourg castle © crédit photo Francois Schnell
Christmas in Eguisheim © crédit photo R. Morant
Christmas in Eguisheim © crédit photo G. Meyer
Bilingual street sign, Kaysersberg © French Moments
This page was originally written in French and translated into English by Alison Walden for French Moments.